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DO NOT waste lure by adding it into timbers which do not contain live termites. The colony is killed only if workers take enough of the bait back to the nest. And they'll only take it whenever they can harvest it, undisturbed, from inside the ruined timber you have found. .
Watch the uneven surface of the window frame. Termites had eaten it out, in some areas leaving only the paint.
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Make an opening into the termites using a pointed knife or fine screwdriver. The gap should be no bigger than about 5mm diameter to begin with. (It ought to be enlarged only when it's time to add the cache of lure ). You can pry into the surface of the wood where it seems spongy, thin or hollow.
It's only as a last resort you should attempt to open a tunnel on a wood or foundation surface. .
Once you've broken through into where it is hollow, wait for a minute or so. If termites are not there, the soldiers usually come to guard the opening while employees repair it. You will see their antennae and their heads blocking the hole. If no live pollutants appear, leave the gap open and come back later or check next moment.
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This shows the way planters will come out from the infested timber into a foil coated mass of lure taped to the surface. Alternatively, if the surface is level, the feeder might be repaired within the hole and the termites will enter it into harvest the lure.
If the wood has a level surface, make the hole away from corners so that you can line it up with the hole helpful site in the bottom of the feeder. If the access hole into the termites is on a round post or another situation where you cannot fix the feeder to it, you can earn a pouch of aluminium foil and duct tape to hold the bait in place.
If you're using the foil method, carefully pull back the edge of the tacky tape to inspect and to replenish the bait. If you are using the feeder method, it is not as disturbing if you can add more bait to the original feeder.
The termites you may see as dark brown nests high up in a tree are click here for more seldom pests of significance. But the main subterranean termites which do this 99 percent of the $damage we mentioned earlier, will often nest inside the central pipe or hollowed out center of a tree. Mastos, the giant northern termite, dont constantly wait for the decay browse around here of the pipe.
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(See the special box on Mastos).
If at colonising flight period a couple find their way into a hollow tree through maybe a dead/broken-off branch or in via a scar from fire at the bottom , they could not possibly have better conditions. Theres plenty to eat, moisture and protection. A 50 metre traveling to your residence would not be out of the question. .
In case you've got a large eucalypt, peppercorn or even a mature fruit tree nearby, you should check it. Use an 15-20mm auger bit long enough to drill into the centre of the trunk at about shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you are feeling less resistance it'll be because you achieve the pipe.
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If not, you could slip in a long thin grass foliage into the drill hole, leave it there for a minute and draw it gradually. Termites might be found holding on, attacking it. If still no live termites are found, come back in half an hour or even next morning; if there's termite lifetime inside, they'll be repairing or have mended the opening using their mud mixture. .
In this situation you dont need to see live termites; its only more satisfying to know you've actually killed a colony when you choose the next steps
Re-open the drill hole if it has been repairedUsing a funnel, plastic tubing and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 litres of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin solution down into the tree. These insecticidal concentrations can be purchased by a local hardware shop. They may be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the tag.